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Switzerland 2009
Pictures here: Madrid with software friends, Camino de Santiago, and Switzerland
Bon Jour, Eric!
I wanted to thank you again for being a fantastic guide for my Matterhorn climb on 30 August, 2009.
The beginning conversations the night before in the hut were invaluable. You showed me the route poster (and some of the photos in the hut), and described the fixed-rope section and the first rope section at the start -- this helped me get mentally prepared. You checked my gear, and gave me a visual picture of what the morning "rush" would be like. We got to know each other a bit, I shared some wine with you and your other mountain guide friends (Xavier and Jean). I felt extremely comfortable with you and knew you would keep me safe and secure. I slept "like a baby" that night.
In the morning (5:50am), the rush was a madhouse -- it reminded me of ski lift queues in France, having to be uncouth and uncivil and push and shove <g>. As I am sure you are aware, Americans are *very* civil about standing in lines, so you are right to emphasize this bit of special Hornli Hut "culture."
Climbing under headlamp and pressure of many people in line was unnerving at first. A giuy was climbing behind me so close that I stepped on his hand -- guess he learned not to follow so closely! There was a point near the beginning where I asked you to slow down just a bit (I train with heart rate monitor and I could tell I was just a couple of beats too fast at that point), and you did just that. It became much more sustainable. I must say that at some point early on -- maybe an hour into it -- I was questioning myself as to whether I would have enough leg strength to make it to the top. But, I just pushed onward, telling myself that I would give it my all and go as far as I could.
As the dawn began to break and I was able to see the rock with more than a headlamp, I felt my perspective change for the positive. It was a great moment when I was able to turn off the headlamp. It was also more fun not to be climbing in a crowd.
At every step of the way when it was a bit tricky, you were very helpful in pointing out toeholds and handholds. We hit the Solvay hut in about 2:34 time, and it was a splendid sunrise by this time (7:23am).
When we hit the fixed ropes section, I was feeling stronger and more confident (plus it was daylight now) -- your gentle urging for me not to be too polite and to "just climb" past some of the others was perfectly timed. I recall climbing my way up and over some folks apparently "stuck" and clogging up the ascent/descent. Once through the set of fixed ropes, you quietly told me I did a good job -- that further bolstered my strength. I knew we were going to make it. One foot after the other, steady movement, "Just stay in step with Eric" I told myself.
Soon we were at The Shoulder and we stopped to put on our crampons. The slope at this point turned shallower as we climbed up snow and ice. I remember joking that the ice steps always seemed to be cut for taller people like you, rather than for people my height. Then I remember there was a bit of a jam of people, and we just sort of stepped off to the side and went up alongside the steps. I felt great and strong and I think you could sense that as well. I told myself to not look up for the summit frequently, but just stay "heads down" and to be "pleasantly surprised" by the final ridge appearing soon enough. And sure enough, we were on the final snow ridge and met up with Jean! (And maybe Xavier too?) Jean immediately thrust out his hand and offered me congratulations (even though I reminded him that technically, it was another 30m of hiking for me to get to the summit <g>).
It was such a momentous thrill to have reached the summit at 9:37am. If you recall, we took a 360-degree video and you helped identify some of the peaks :-)
Of course, coming down is no small part of the Matterhorn climb. You were spectacular in how patient you were... After all, it took 4.5 hours to get up and 5.5 hours to get down. I felt like I was C-R-A-W-L-I-N-G down so slowly. My big toes were in pain, and my quadriceps were complaining. You see, less than two weeks prior to summiting, my shins (front part of lower leg above the ankle where the bone and tendon meet) were so inflamed that I had them wrapped with bandages. From about 7 Aug through the 14th, standing up each morning was excruciatingly painful. I walked ~150km on the Camino de Santiago with a 10+kg pack, and initially I was running to try and catch ip with my family who were 3 days ahead of me. So while I was training in Zermatt, I tended to climb up to 3000+ meters day after day, but always look to catch a lift or train down to save my legs from the "pounding" of walking downhill. Naturally, being stronger for the downhill portion would have allowed us to go faster.
But, anytime that I apologized for going slow, you immediately reassured me that it was not a problem. I never felt uncomfortable or pressured. Your roping skills were excellent. When I needed a little tug or to feel the reassurance of your presence, the rope was taut. When you knew I was comfortable and moving safely, you gave me slack. There was not a SINGLE instance where I ever felt unsafe. I was so thankful for every abseil, and I think you knew that. It allowed my sore toes to rest and for my quads to relax for a bit. I am sure it is harder for you than being with someone who could downclimb just as fast as you, so I appreciate your patience and skill.
Funny thing, if you asked me in the hut if I would climb the Matterhorn again, I would say "NO WAY!" I actually think that it would be fun to do it again -- but maybe under different circumstances. Less in the dark, and possibly with lighter boots and no painful toes.
Even though I thought I couldn't walk after the descent, I decided to try. It took me about 20 minutes to get out of the hut and head for Schwarzsee. I was rehydrating as I was getting my boots off, etc. I felt like my brain was in slow motion. Once I put on my lightweight trail shoes, got my Leki sticks and stood up, I was a whole different climber! I could move again and had some nimbleness return to my form. Sure, large steps down were still painful and I had to take them a bit "sideways", but I moved down the trail rapidly. I think I was down to Schwarzsee in about 1:30! But I was too late for the last ride down. So I descended all the way to Zermatt! What's another 1000m of descent? The lure of a nice shower at Hotel Tannenhof and a great meal at Hotel Continental was my motivation. I finally arrived in Zermatt at about 8:30pm (I took the longer, gentler Furi/Zermatstrasse path into town) :-)
After one last glimpse at the beautiful Matterhorn in the setting sun, I was home.
You are the consummate professional guide. I really cannot thank you enough other than offering this unconditional testimonial and praise for your incredible technical abilities and -- just as critical -- tremendous personal skills at being a great climbing partner.
I know who to contact next time I am in Zermatt or Verbier or the general area in Winter or Summer!
---------------------------------
Spain with Family
Sue (my wife) and the girls (Heidi and Caroline) were walking across Spain from 2 July (starting in St. Jean Pied du Port, France) to whenever they hit Santiago. My goal was to rendezvous with them in Sarria, the last point away fromSantiago where you could still be a pilgrim and get a certificate of accomplishment.
So I landed in Madrid, Spain, on the morning of Wednesday, 5 August. (A week prior I had just returned from a 6 day trip to Bangalore, India.)
My good friend, Roberto from Autentia (an agile software development company) picked me up at Madrid airport and we went to his office to collect Alejandro (who was teaching a course in the training room).
We then went to Alcala, a university town nearby Madrid and their office. Very beautiful. We had a most splendid lunch and then a stroll. Madrid is lovely when it is 38.5 deg C! Afterward, we went to swim at Roberto's to cool off. He invited a few more software friends over (Ivan and Leo) and we had some nice pizza for dinner. At night on the terrace, the temperature was perfect, I must say.
Alejandro then took me to the airport for a midnight bus to Lugo, after which I caught an 8:30 bus to Sarria. All to get me closer to the Camino de Santiago, were I was trying to catch Sue and the girls who were at the spot I was heading for (Sarria) 3 days ago! So I started at 9:30am (very LATE), and 3 days behind. Gulp.
"Heck," I thought, "I have been doing 13km trail runs along the Appalachian Trail in 2 to 2.5 hours with 6 liters of water as dead weight. I should be able to catch them..." Except for a couple of minor details:
Days On The Camino
My shins splints are now in full bloom. Swelling, redness, extreme pain, hard to walk in the morning until they limbered up, etc.
WHAT AN IDIOT I WAS!
Saturday 22 August - Walk with Annemarie & Co.
After hiking to Sunegge (lunch stop), we traversed five little lakes before descending to Zermatt.
Sunday 30 August - Successful Matterhorn (4478m/14.7Kft) Climb
This account is based on a thank you letter to my guide:Bon Jour, Eric!
I wanted to thank you again for being a fantastic guide for my Matterhorn climb on 30 August, 2009.
The beginning conversations the night before in the hut were invaluable. You showed me the route poster (and some of the photos in the hut), and described the fixed-rope section and the first rope section at the start -- this helped me get mentally prepared. You checked my gear, and gave me a visual picture of what the morning "rush" would be like. We got to know each other a bit, I shared some wine with you and your other mountain guide friends (Xavier and Jean). I felt extremely comfortable with you and knew you would keep me safe and secure. I slept "like a baby" that night.
In the morning (5:50am), the rush was a madhouse -- it reminded me of ski lift queues in France, having to be uncouth and uncivil and push and shove <g>. As I am sure you are aware, Americans are *very* civil about standing in lines, so you are right to emphasize this bit of special Hornli Hut "culture."
Climbing under headlamp and pressure of many people in line was unnerving at first. A giuy was climbing behind me so close that I stepped on his hand -- guess he learned not to follow so closely! There was a point near the beginning where I asked you to slow down just a bit (I train with heart rate monitor and I could tell I was just a couple of beats too fast at that point), and you did just that. It became much more sustainable. I must say that at some point early on -- maybe an hour into it -- I was questioning myself as to whether I would have enough leg strength to make it to the top. But, I just pushed onward, telling myself that I would give it my all and go as far as I could.
As the dawn began to break and I was able to see the rock with more than a headlamp, I felt my perspective change for the positive. It was a great moment when I was able to turn off the headlamp. It was also more fun not to be climbing in a crowd.
At every step of the way when it was a bit tricky, you were very helpful in pointing out toeholds and handholds. We hit the Solvay hut in about 2:34 time, and it was a splendid sunrise by this time (7:23am).
When we hit the fixed ropes section, I was feeling stronger and more confident (plus it was daylight now) -- your gentle urging for me not to be too polite and to "just climb" past some of the others was perfectly timed. I recall climbing my way up and over some folks apparently "stuck" and clogging up the ascent/descent. Once through the set of fixed ropes, you quietly told me I did a good job -- that further bolstered my strength. I knew we were going to make it. One foot after the other, steady movement, "Just stay in step with Eric" I told myself.Soon we were at The Shoulder and we stopped to put on our crampons. The slope at this point turned shallower as we climbed up snow and ice. I remember joking that the ice steps always seemed to be cut for taller people like you, rather than for people my height. Then I remember there was a bit of a jam of people, and we just sort of stepped off to the side and went up alongside the steps. I felt great and strong and I think you could sense that as well. I told myself to not look up for the summit frequently, but just stay "heads down" and to be "pleasantly surprised" by the final ridge appearing soon enough. And sure enough, we were on the final snow ridge and met up with Jean! (And maybe Xavier too?) Jean immediately thrust out his hand and offered me congratulations (even though I reminded him that technically, it was another 30m of hiking for me to get to the summit <g>).
It was such a momentous thrill to have reached the summit at 9:37am. If you recall, we took a 360-degree video and you helped identify some of the peaks :-)
Of course, coming down is no small part of the Matterhorn climb. You were spectacular in how patient you were... After all, it took 4.5 hours to get up and 5.5 hours to get down. I felt like I was C-R-A-W-L-I-N-G down so slowly. My big toes were in pain, and my quadriceps were complaining. You see, less than two weeks prior to summiting, my shins (front part of lower leg above the ankle where the bone and tendon meet) were so inflamed that I had them wrapped with bandages. From about 7 Aug through the 14th, standing up each morning was excruciatingly painful. I walked ~150km on the Camino de Santiago with a 10+kg pack, and initially I was running to try and catch ip with my family who were 3 days ahead of me. So while I was training in Zermatt, I tended to climb up to 3000+ meters day after day, but always look to catch a lift or train down to save my legs from the "pounding" of walking downhill. Naturally, being stronger for the downhill portion would have allowed us to go faster.
But, anytime that I apologized for going slow, you immediately reassured me that it was not a problem. I never felt uncomfortable or pressured. Your roping skills were excellent. When I needed a little tug or to feel the reassurance of your presence, the rope was taut. When you knew I was comfortable and moving safely, you gave me slack. There was not a SINGLE instance where I ever felt unsafe. I was so thankful for every abseil, and I think you knew that. It allowed my sore toes to rest and for my quads to relax for a bit. I am sure it is harder for you than being with someone who could downclimb just as fast as you, so I appreciate your patience and skill.
Funny thing, if you asked me in the hut if I would climb the Matterhorn again, I would say "NO WAY!" I actually think that it would be fun to do it again -- but maybe under different circumstances. Less in the dark, and possibly with lighter boots and no painful toes.
Even though I thought I couldn't walk after the descent, I decided to try. It took me about 20 minutes to get out of the hut and head for Schwarzsee. I was rehydrating as I was getting my boots off, etc. I felt like my brain was in slow motion. Once I put on my lightweight trail shoes, got my Leki sticks and stood up, I was a whole different climber! I could move again and had some nimbleness return to my form. Sure, large steps down were still painful and I had to take them a bit "sideways", but I moved down the trail rapidly. I think I was down to Schwarzsee in about 1:30! But I was too late for the last ride down. So I descended all the way to Zermatt! What's another 1000m of descent? The lure of a nice shower at Hotel Tannenhof and a great meal at Hotel Continental was my motivation. I finally arrived in Zermatt at about 8:30pm (I took the longer, gentler Furi/Zermatstrasse path into town) :-)
After one last glimpse at the beautiful Matterhorn in the setting sun, I was home.
You are the consummate professional guide. I really cannot thank you enough other than offering this unconditional testimonial and praise for your incredible technical abilities and -- just as critical -- tremendous personal skills at being a great climbing partner.
I know who to contact next time I am in Zermatt or Verbier or the general area in Winter or Summer!
---------------------------------
Spain with Family
Sue (my wife) and the girls (Heidi and Caroline) were walking across Spain from 2 July (starting in St. Jean Pied du Port, France) to whenever they hit Santiago. My goal was to rendezvous with them in Sarria, the last point away fromSantiago where you could still be a pilgrim and get a certificate of accomplishment.So I landed in Madrid, Spain, on the morning of Wednesday, 5 August. (A week prior I had just returned from a 6 day trip to Bangalore, India.)
My good friend, Roberto from Autentia (an agile software development company) picked me up at Madrid airport and we went to his office to collect Alejandro (who was teaching a course in the training room).
We then went to Alcala, a university town nearby Madrid and their office. Very beautiful. We had a most splendid lunch and then a stroll. Madrid is lovely when it is 38.5 deg C! Afterward, we went to swim at Roberto's to cool off. He invited a few more software friends over (Ivan and Leo) and we had some nice pizza for dinner. At night on the terrace, the temperature was perfect, I must say.
Alejandro then took me to the airport for a midnight bus to Lugo, after which I caught an 8:30 bus to Sarria. All to get me closer to the Camino de Santiago, were I was trying to catch Sue and the girls who were at the spot I was heading for (Sarria) 3 days ago! So I started at 9:30am (very LATE), and 3 days behind. Gulp.
I am An Idiot
Sue told me to pack light. She suggested maybe I just take a bus to Santiago and skip trying to walk the last 100km and catch them. I listened to neither."Heck," I thought, "I have been doing 13km trail runs along the Appalachian Trail in 2 to 2.5 hours with 6 liters of water as dead weight. I should be able to catch them..." Except for a couple of minor details:
- I was hauling 25 pounds of pack
- And I never followed up a trail run day with another one. I knew to always rest in between workouts.
Days On The Camino
| Thu 06 Aug | Sarria to Portomarin. Started in cloudy weather, rained/drizzled/misted quite a bit. Ran part of the way with a 25 pound pack (idiot). | 21.5km 13.3mi | 4h 19m |
| Fri 07 Aug | Portomarin to Melide. My shins are killing me. The last hour or two was brutal. Believe it or not, I jogged part of the way, as it seemed to feel better. Must have been a mental mirage! | 39km 24.2mi | 8h 50m |
| Sat 08 Aug | Melide to Moto de Gozo. Able to do slow jog for a couple of hours off and on. Shins killing me, downhills suck, but uphills are a breeze. Can barely walk by the time I get to Albuerge for the night. Finally catch my family! | 46km 28.5mi | 10h 8m |
| Sun 09 Aug | Walked/limped into Santiago as a family and went to the Sunday Mass at the Cathedral. SRO. | 5km 3.1 miles | 1h 22m |
My shins splints are now in full bloom. Swelling, redness, extreme pain, hard to walk in the morning until they limbered up, etc.
WHAT AN IDIOT I WAS!
Saturday 22 August - Walk with Annemarie & Co.
After hiking to Sunegge (lunch stop), we traversed five little lakes before descending to Zermatt.| Altitude Max | 2287m | 2267 |
| Vertical | 660m | 613 |
| Ascent | Avg 7m/min Max 22m/min | Avg 6m/min Max 91m/min |
| Descent | -- | 830m Avg 7m/min |
| Duration | 1:47 | 3:56 |
Sunday 23 August - Riffelhorn Rock Climb
Three hours or so up and down.| Altitude Max | 2915m |
| Vertical | 350m Rock Face ~200m |
| Ascent | Avg 5m/min Max 100m/min |
| Descent | Avg 6m/min Max 118m/min |
| HR Max | 171 |
| HR Avg | 134 |
| < 146 HR | 2:11 |
| Calories | 1867 |
JonKern |
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